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Important Fitting & Finishing Tips

You can count on Callander's Mr Tux to ensure that your tuxedo fits properly before you leave the store. However, here are the answers to some fitting questions we commonly receive:

 

TUXEDO COATS

 

Button Your Jacket!
During a fitting, make sure you button your jacket. If it produces an hour glass shape, the coat may be too tight. If it looks boxy, it may be too big. No matter whether you are slim, stocky or muscular, a properly fitted jacket will taper slightly at the waist.
Pay Attention To Your Shoulders
The shoulder padding of your tuxedo jacket should not extend beyond your shoulders and hang down your arm. If so, your jacket is too big. Conversely, if a significant crease or roll appears below the jacket collar in back, your jacket may be too small.
Button This Many...
You should never button all of the buttons on your tuxedo coat, you should leave the bottom button undone. This rule applies if you are wearing a two, three, four or five button coat. If you're wearing a one button style, however, you should button it!

FORMAL TROUSERS

 

The Pant Leg Breaks Where?
The perfect length pant leg breaks slightly on top of the shoe and angles a bit downward.
To properly judge the fit of your trousers, you should wear your formal shoes when trying on your pants.
Your Trousers' Waistband
Our formal trousers come with an adjustable waist band of three inches. Fear not, your pants won't be too tight! With the adjustable waist band, you'll have some flexibility and a comfortable fit.
On a properly fitted pair of formal trousers, the waistband should be even with the gentleman's navel.

FORMAL SHIRTS

 

How Much Shirt Sleeve Should We See?
Shirt sleeves should extend one quarter to one half inch beyond the jacket's sleeves.
A Proper Fitting Collar
A formal shirt collar should wrap smoothly around the neck. If you can slip more than one finger between the collar and your neck, your shirt is too big. If no fingers fit, your shirt is too small.
Do The Tips Go On Top Or Behind?
The tips or flaps on a wing collar shirt should sit BEHIND your bow tie; not on top of it.

ACCESSORIES

 

The Bottom Button of a Fullback Vest
If your vest is a six button fullback vest, it is OK to unbutton the bottom button. This also keeps the vest from bunching when you sit down.
If the vest has five or less buttons, all buttons should remain buttoned.
Cover Up Your Waistband
Both cummerbunds and vests should cover the top waistband of your formal trousers when worn properly.
It Just Looks Better
If you think you may remove your jacket during the reception, opt for a fullback vest.
When To Wear Suspenders
You may wear suspenders with a cummerbund.. However, you should not wear suspenders with a vest unless you need them to help keep your pants up!
Pleats Up On Your Cummerbund
Cummerbunds are worn with the pleats facing up. It's said they are worn that way to hold your opera tickets and catch any crumbs that fall in your lap!
Wear One Or The Other
Wearing both a boutonniere and a pocket square is not recommended.
How Do I Fold A Pocket Square?
We have a web page showing you three methods to fold a pocket square. Check it out here.
Flowers On The Left
A boutonniere should be worn on the left lapel and tilted slightly outward.

FORMAL SHOES

 

What Color Shoes Do I Need?
Allow your pants color to dictate your shoe color. Black formal shoes and socks should be worn when your pants are black. White shoes and socks worn with white pants. Likewise for ivory...
If you are choosing to wear one of our colored tuxedo coats and choose to coordinate the coat with matching pants, choose black formal shoes. If you coordinate the coat with black formal trousers, choose black shoes, too.
Formal Shoes Are The Best Choice
Any old pair of black leather shoes are not apprpriate with a tuxedo. Black patent formal shoes are the best way to go. Be sure to wear the correct color socks, too. Black socks with a black tuxedo, white socks with a white tuxedo and ivory socks with an ivory tuxedo.
 
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